Why Is My Arborvitae Turning Brown? Winter Burn in Wisconsin
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Quick answer: Most brown arborvitae in Sheboygan County is one of four things: winter burn on the south and west sides, normal fall shedding of old interior foliage, road salt, or deer. Winter burn happens when sun and wind pull water out of the foliage while the ground is frozen and the roots can't replace it. Deep fall watering, mulch and a burlap screen on the exposed side prevent most of it.
The good news is that a brown arborvitae is not always a dead one. The pattern of the browning tells you the cause, and the cause tells you whether to wait, prune or replace. Here is how to read it.
Arborvitae looking rough after winter? Our property maintenance program covers shrub trimming, bed care and seasonal cleanups, so dead wood gets cut out at the right time and beds go into winter ready.
Is it winter burn or something else?
Walk around the plant and look at where the brown is. That one observation sorts out most cases.
| What you see | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Brown tips and outer foliage on the south, southwest or west side, showing up in late winter or spring | Winter burn | Wait for new growth, then prune dead tips |
| Brown foliage deep inside the plant in fall, green outer shell | Normal seasonal shedding | Nothing; it drops on its own |
| Browning on the side facing a road, driveway or sidewalk, often low | Salt spray or salty meltwater | Flush with water in spring, change ice melt, screen next winter |
| Bare, chewed foliage up to about head height of a deer | Deer browsing | Fence or screen; deer favor arborvitae |
| Brown patches at the base on one side, near a walk | Dog urine | Rinse the area; block access |
| Whole plant brown at once | Severe drought, root damage or a dead plant | Scratch test; replace if no green remains |
What causes winter burn on arborvitae?
Arborvitae keep their foliage all winter, and that foliage keeps losing water on sunny, windy days. When the soil is frozen, the roots can't pull water back up. The result is dried-out, brown foliage that usually shows up in March and April, even though the damage happened in January or February.
According to UW–Madison Extension, the south, southwest and west sides get hit hardest. Other things that make it worse:
- A dry fall, so the plant goes into winter short on water
- A warm fall that delays dormancy, followed by a hard freeze
- Big temperature swings in mid-winter
- Strong wind, which we have plenty of near Lake Michigan
- Shallow roots on young or recently planted shrubs
- Late-summer pruning or late nitrogen fertilizer that pushes tender new growth
Put those together and the highest-risk plants are young arborvitae on an open, west-facing lot line, which describes a lot of newer subdivision hedges in Sheboygan and Plymouth.
Why is the inside of my arborvitae brown in the fall?
This one worries a lot of homeowners and is usually nothing. Arborvitae shed their oldest foliage every year, and it sits on the inside of the plant where it gets little light. UW–Madison Extension notes that arborvitae foliage tends to turn brown as it ages, where pines tend to yellow, and it can hang on for a while before it drops.
The tell is location. If the brown is all on the interior and the outer shell is green and full, it's normal shedding. A gentle shake or a light hand-rake through the plant will clear most of it. If the outer foliage is browning too, look for one of the other causes.
Can salt and deer turn arborvitae brown?
Yes, and both are common here. Salt spray from plowed roads and salty meltwater from driveways damage the side of the shrub that faces the pavement. Rinsing the soil well in spring helps move salt down and away from the roots. Using a gentler product and keeping salt piles off the beds helps more. Our article on pet-safe ice melt for lawns and plants covers which products cause the least harm.
Deer damage looks different. The foliage is chewed off and missing, and the damage stops at the height a deer can reach. Arborvitae is one of the plants deer favor most in winter, so a hedge near a woodlot or field edge in Kohler or the Town of Wilson is a likely target. A burlap screen or temporary fence through winter is the practical fix.
Will a brown arborvitae come back?
Often, yes, if the buds survived. Brown foliage itself won't turn green again, but new growth can fill in from live buds and branches.
- Wait until new growth starts in late spring. Don't prune in March; you can't tell yet what's alive.
- Do the scratch test. Scrape a branch lightly with a thumbnail. Green tissue underneath means the branch is alive.
- Prune out dead tips once you can see where the new growth starts. Cut back to live foliage. Arborvitae don't regrow from old bare wood, so avoid cutting into the bare interior.
- Water through dry spells that summer to help it recover.
- Give it time. Recovery can take a couple of growing seasons. A plant that's brown top to bottom with no green under the bark is not coming back and should be replaced.
If a hedge has big gaps after a hard winter, replacing a few plants with something better suited to the spot may be smarter than waiting. Our guide to tree and shrub planting costs covers what that involves.
How do you prevent winter burn before it starts?
Most of the work happens in October and November, before the ground freezes.
- Water deeply until the ground freezes. UW–Madison Extension suggests about an inch a week for established plants and more for new plantings. A dry fall is when this matters most.
- Mulch the root zone. Two to four inches of shredded hardwood, kept a few inches off the trunk, holds moisture and insulates roots. See mulch types compared for options.
- Use a screen instead of a wrap. Burlap on stakes along the south and west sides blocks sun and wind. Wrapping burlap tightly around the plant traps heat and moisture and can do more harm than good.
- Skip late pruning and late nitrogen. Trim in late spring or early summer so new growth hardens before winter.
- Don't count on anti-desiccant sprays. UW–Madison Extension rates their benefit as limited because they break down quickly.
- Plant the right thing in the right spot. On a windy, sunny west exposure, consider a tougher evergreen.
Our November winter-prep checklist has the full list of shrub and lawn tasks for the weeks before snow, and the winter landscape guide covers what to watch for once it arrives.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my arborvitae turning brown in the fall?
Fall browning on the inside of an arborvitae is usually normal. The plant sheds its oldest interior foliage every year, and it turns brown before it drops. If the outer foliage is still green and full, there is nothing to treat.
Why is my arborvitae brown only on one side?
Browning on the south, southwest or west side after winter is the classic sign of winter burn, caused by sun and wind drying foliage while the ground is frozen. Browning on the side facing a road or driveway usually points to salt spray or salty meltwater instead.
Will brown arborvitae turn green again?
Brown foliage will not turn green again, but the plant can push new growth from live buds. Wait until late spring, scratch a branch to check for green tissue, then prune dead tips back to live foliage. Recovery can take a couple of growing seasons.
When should I prune winter-burned arborvitae?
Prune after new growth starts in late spring, when you can see what is alive. Cut dead tips back to live foliage and avoid cutting into the bare interior, because arborvitae do not regrow well from old bare wood.
Should I wrap my arborvitae in burlap for winter?
Put burlap on stakes as a screen on the south and west sides instead of wrapping it tightly around the plant. A screen blocks sun and wind. A tight wrap can trap heat and moisture against the foliage.
How much should I water arborvitae before winter?
Keep established arborvitae watered with about an inch of water per week through fall until the ground freezes, and more for newly planted shrubs. A dry fall is the most common setup for winter burn in Wisconsin.
Want your shrubs looked after on schedule? Our property maintenance program handles shrub trimming, mulch and seasonal cleanups across Sheboygan County, or call or text (920) 943-6422.
About Sunny Stripes
Sunny Stripes is a family-owned landscaping company based in Sheboygan, WI, serving homeowners and businesses across Sheboygan County — including Sheboygan, Kohler, the Town of Wilson, Sheboygan Falls, and Plymouth. From weekly mowing, fertilization, aeration and topdressing to seasonal cleanups and snow removal, we handle the details other crews skip. Insured & bonded. Call or text (920) 943-6422, email carl@sunnystripes.com, or price your property online. Follow our latest projects on Facebook.